981 Sibley Memorial Hwy
Lilydale, MN
651-905-1081
http://www.inonnirestaurant.com/
Category: Italian
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: 8
Ambience: 7
Recommendation: Excellent. Amazing dinner service, only heightened by a wine-tasting adventure of a flight of Valpolicella wine from the North of Italy.
I Nonni is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the Twin Cities and usually leads the pack in the Italian category. It’s not the Mecca for cutting-edge inventive cuisine; that’s not what their mantra is. It more like “use the freshest and best quality ingredients and create well-prepared home-style dishes”. Well, we’re here to tell you that it works. It’s located on a quiet strip in Lilydale (you’re probably wondering where this is, and there’s a sadistic side of me that doesn’t want to reveal that Lilydale is essentially on the west edge of St. Paul). The interior is refined and up-scale, yet doesn’t radiate an air of haughtiness. The décor is in fact really simple – abundant use of the neutral color palette is accented by sparing use of dark woods and contrasting red/orange metal and glass lights. There’s a large bar area and an outdoor patio that serves happy hour Mon-Fri from 4-6pm (1/2 price house wines, $1 off beer, and appetizer specials). The neighboring Italian Market, Buon Giorno, is more than just an Italian market – it’s a casual alternative to I Nonni.
Our table was leaning towards the 5-course tasting menu, but I couldn’t get myself to do it (frankly, the tasting menu didn’t sound as enticing as some of the options on the a-la-carte menu). Our server was more than willing to make an exception for me and I certainly appreciated that. We started off with a bottle of the Bussola Valpolicella Amarone, an unusual wine we highly recommend…it starts off with fruity overtones but ends with a dry, bold finish. I noticed that the server was “seasoning” our wines glasses by pouring a small amount of wine in the glass and swirling it around, before transferring it to the next glass. We’d never seen this done before, but it was a nice touch. I started with the Beef Carpaccio (with Arugula, Olive Oil, Lemon, and Parmesan)…the razor thin slices of beef melted in my mouth while the accompaniments added salty, bitter, and citrus flavors. My pasta course was a simple Linguini and Clams (with Garlic, Chili and White Wine), that was simply prepared – mild flavors with a shot of spiciness that hit you once in a while.
By this time we’re done with our first bottle of wine and ask our server to make a recommendation on another bottle, a task she delegates to the restaurant manager, Tom. A personable chap, he was gracious enough to give us an overview of the types of Valpolicella wines and how dried grapes are used in the production of these wines. He recommended we try the Ca’ Rugate Valpolicella Superiore Campo Lavei (the Superiore being the 2nd rung in Valpolicella’s as opposed to Amarone, the 3rd rung). This wine was outstanding and had a smooth finish…it was adored around the table. Getting back to the food; my third course was the house specialty – Veal Shank Osso Bucco with Gremolata and Risotto Bianco. The meat was tender and nicely flavored and I liked the simple pairing of the creamy risotto (this is home cooking at its finest). And even though I’ve been enjoying my meal, I didn’t pass up the opportunity to sample the tasting menu dishes off my fellow diners, all of which were splendid. I did end up with a cheese course from the tasting menu, a Fontina Val D’Aosta d.o.p, which was strong and had bitter undertones. To pair with the cheese we had the fourth rung of the Valpolicella’s, a Ca’ Rugate Recioto, sweet, fruity, and wonderful and perfect with the honey in the cheese course. I finished my meal with a couple of bites of the Zucchini Bread with Raspberry and Honey Yogurt. It may not sound like dessert, but met with my approval – it’s not overly sweet but the raspberry and honey tones give it great depth of flavor.
Service was very good and it was nice to see the personal care they provide their customers and how seriously they take their wine (did I mention that the Italian-only wine list is spectacular).
$$$$. The 5-course degustazione menu is $50 + another $25 for the wine flight (a very reasonably priced tasting menu).
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Osteria I Nonni
Midtown Global Market
2929 Chicago Ave
Minneapolis, MN
612-872-4041
http://www.midtownglobalmarket.org
Category: Global Food Market
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 8
Service: N/A
Ambience: 8
Recommendation: Very Good. Unique, one of a kind international market in the Twin Cities which offers great food (and much more) -- from an organic produce market to ethnic eateries, and global arts/crafts shopping to various cultural lessons (dancing, yoga, etc).
The Midtown Global Market truly has something for everyone. Located in the old Sears building on East Lake street between Chicago and 10th Avenue, it has helped in this corridor’s revitalization. The indoor market, which contains 50+ independent and locally owned stores, is ideal for our climate. It is internationally themed and has plenty to satisfy a variety of tastes – we especially love the courtyard that always has events going on (jazz, salsa dancing lessons, yoga, live music, etc). This is not just a place that offers unique things, but is instead a great way to immerse oneself in other cultures and learn about them. They have a great web-site with a schedule of events so you should plan your trip around the events before you go.
In some ways visiting the market is like going to the Festival of Nations, except the market is year round. The set-up is much like a food court where there are central, shared sitting areas, although there are a couple of sit-down restaurants as well. The similarities to a food court stops there -- most eateries here also have free standing restaurants in other places in the Twin Cities and you can expect very good food. A few of the eateries that we’ve tried are:
· Holy land Bakery and Deli (Middle Eastern) – they have excellent Gyros, Falafel, Hummus, and other Middle Eastern dishes. There is a grocery store attached where you can buy Middle Eastern grocery items, olives, pita bread, etc. Original store located on Central Avenue.
· Manny’s Tortas (Mexican) – serves a nice selection of Mexican sandwiches. Have tried three different sandwiches (Steak, Chicken, and Eggs and Sausage) and really enjoyed all of them. The bread is a little chewy (much like a baguette) and we love the combination of the avocados, chipotle mayo and jalapenos (which we always get extra of).
· Taqueria Los Ocampo (Mexican) – An extension of the restaurant of the same name a few blocks away. We really enjoyed the simple tacos which we tried with three different pork preparations (carnitas, al pastor, and pork in red sauce). Heavenly.
· Panaderia El Mexicano (Mexican Bakery) – Cakes are $3/slice and Cookies are $0.75. The Tres Leches and the Chocoflan (a chocolate and flan layered cake) were delicious. They also have Conchas (Chocolate and Vanilla), which are Conch shell shaped Mexican sweet breads.
· Salty Tart (Bakery) – a great sweet way to end your meal. We highly recommend the Crème Fraiche Cake which is moist and has good sweet and tart tones from the berries. You can’t go wrong with the Coconut Macaroon either – it’s nice and sticky on the outside and has a soft, chewy, fragrant interior. We didn’t think much of the Sweet Brioche.
· Mapps Coffee & Tea – head on over and grab a coffee to pair with your dessert. We’re usually Caramel Latte people and Mapps makes a killer latte.
Other eateries include A La Salsa (main restaurant on Nicollet Mall), La Loma Tamales (Mexican), La Sirena Gorda (Seafood), Pham’s Deli (Vietnamese), West Indies Soul (Caribbean), and more.
The Market is also a great place for Specialty Grocery items. United Noodles has a location here. There are many Latin American markets as well. There is also a Cultural Herb place where you can buy medicinal herbs from around the world. We love going to the Produce Exchange, which has high quality fresh produce and flowers at very affordable prices. Some vendors set up temporary stands, such as Deep Roots Gourmet Desserts that had delicious Sweet Potato Pies, Mango Cobbler, etc. Midtown Global also has several unique arts and crafts stores from around the world that sell everything from jewelry to sarongs, rugs, and art.
Metered Parking is free on weekends. There is a ramp on 10th Avenue and Lake where you can park for free for up to 3 hours with a validate purchase. The market is open daily from 10am-8pm Mon-Sat and from 10am-6pm on Sunday.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Taqueria Los Ocampo
417 E Lake St
Minneapolis, MN
612-823-5398
Other locations: 809 E Laket St, 895 Arcade Street,
St. Paul & Midtown Global Market
Category: Mexican
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 6
Service: N/A (Counter service)
Ambience: 6
Recommendation: Good. Offering decent authentic Mexican food with several options to customize, Los Ocampo is one of many taquerias part of the East Lake Street Mexican scene.
Nick and I love authentic Mexican food and it is nice to know that we don’t have to move to the Southwest Unites States to satisfy our tastes. Here in the Twin Cities, the East Lake Street area in Minneapolis and District Del Sol in St. Paul (Robert St. and Cesar Chavez St.) offer a truly authentic Mexican experience. Some of our favorites in the area are the Mercado Central Market, Midtown Global Market, and El Burrito Mercado. We were excited to try Los Ocampo, 
especially after City Pages gave it the “Best Burrito” honor in 2008. Although the place is set up like a fast food restaurant, it has character. Hacienda style walls are adorned with Mexican artifacts but we were annoyed by the blaring TV showing a Jerry Springer style Mexican show when we visited. The menu has lots of options such as Quesadillas, Gorditas, Sopes, Tacos, Huaraches, Burritos that you can customize by selecting from 15+ types of meats. Meats include traditional Mexican dishes such as Chorizo, Al Pastor (roasted marinated pork), Tinga de Pollo (shredded chicken), Carnitas (shredded roasted pork), and Mexican style chicken (with onions, tomatoes, and chile) to name a few.
We ordered the Burrito Combo with Carnitas (came with a side of Chips & Guacamole) and Enchiladas in Green Sauce with Ground Beef. The Mexican Coke (made with real sugar instead of corn syrup and served in a glass bottle) helped make the experience truly authentic. The portion sizes are huge
and we could only finish about half our meal (the burrito can easily be shared between 2 people). While the burrito was excellent and the Carnitas were well flavored it was too big and the proportion of rice to meat was off (we would have preferred less rice with the same amount of meat). The Guacamole was a bit bland but we were able to fix it by adding salt and lime juice. We found the chips to be on the stale side. The Enchiladas were a bit disappointing. They tasted fine but with were topped with too much cheese, onions, and other ingredients that took away from the main dish. The green sauce was too tangy, not one of our favorites and too much sauce made the tortillas very soggy.
$. Free parking in the back of the restaurant.
French Meadow Bakery
2610 Lyndale Ave S
Minneapolis, MN
612-870-7855
http://www.frenchmeadow.com/
Category: Bakery, Café, Breakfast
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 7
Service: N/A (counter service)
Ambience: 8
Recommendation: Good. A great organic and natural bakery catering not only to the masses but also vegetarians/vegans and those with dietary restrictions.
French Meadow, located in the Lyn-Lake area of Uptown is a popular place for Breakfast, Sandwiches, Soups, and other bakery items such as breads and desserts. Open since 1985, it is the longest running organic bakery in the United States. They have many menu items that cater to Vegans and are Gluten free. The interior is rustic with earthy tones and grey tiles. The walls are adorned with large photographs largely centering around bread. They have outdoor seating in the summer but the place is always packed so its hard to score an outside seat.
We were there recently for lunch and tried a few different sandwiches, all of which tasted very fresh but were light on flavor. All sandwiches are served with a side of organic tortillas chips and salsa, organic mixed greens or firecracker coleslaw. The Mango Chicken came with free range chicken grilled with Swiss cheese, spinach, and mango chutney. The ciabatta bread was huge and overpowered the sandwich - we wished there was less bread and more stuff (and we’re the last ones to complain about too much bread)! While the chicken and cheese were delicious, the chutney had mild flavors and there wasn’t enough spinach in the sandwich. The Firecracker Slaw was made of red cabbage with Asian flavors and had a nice crunch to it. The Turkey and Gouda Burger had a fresh garlicky taste, which we liked but we wished for there to be a bit more kick to it. The caramelized onions it was topped with were pretty bland. The Turkey and Gouda Sandwich came topped with cranberries, red onions, spinach, and Dijon mustard. Simple yet flavorful, this was one our favorites. The chips and salsa was underwhelming.
You order from a large menu behind the counter and your meal and silverware is brought to your table. Make sure your table sign is visible in order for the server to find you quickly.
$. Most items under $10. Street parking on Lyndale avenue.
Monday, July 14, 2008
La Belle Vie
510 Groveland Ave
Minneapolis, MN
612-874-6440
http://www.labellevie.us/
Category: French/Mediterranean
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: 10
Ambience: 9
Recommendation: Excellent. Fresh off a second-straight James Beard nomination for best chef in the Midwest, Tim McKee shines and produces what is widely considered the best food in the Twin Cities.
Having just returned from our first trip to La Belle Vie (LBV) I was anxious to put my thoughts on paper (it is past midnight and the adrenaline is pumping). I’ll be honest; I wasn’t sure what to expect from LBV. I have two friends, both of who I respect because they know their food, and they recounted two diametrically opposite experiences from their last visits; one had a smashingly good time at LBV (read his review here), while the other wanted to smash his head against a wall (figuratively). As we were escorted to our seats, my heart was pumping fast; in anticipation of what was to come and from finally stepping into the hallowed halls of the dining area known as LBV.
You could drive right by LBV and not notice it – the exterior is 
non-descript (it’s actually part of a residential complex). When you enter the lobby, on the right is the LBV lounge…casual, contemporary and inviting. We were greeted right away and whisked away to the dining area. The space, with its mix of both traditional and contemporary design, evokes class and elegance. The walls are painted beige and there’s heavy use of intricate white trim as accents. But just as you’re soaking in the classic design, you’re hit with the modern – metal sculptures, abstract art, and clean lines of the tables and chairs. The whole room was nicely lit from the sunlight filtering through the sheer covered large windows.
The menu, at the hands of two-time James Beard nominee Tim McKee, has influences from France and the Mediterranean. He offers both a 5-course and an 8-course tasting menu, complete with wine flights (note that the tasting menu is served to the whole table). We went the 5-course route with a twist – we would 
add a Bouillabaisse as a 6th course. The wine list at LBV is spectacular, however it’s the non-alcoholic beverage list that really caught our eye…it’s a non-drinker’s dream. The Amethyst (blackberry syrup, sweet and sour, and sparkling water) was a sweet and bubbly concoction. The Petit Parlez-Vous (a pineapple raspberry martini topped with orange/passion fruit foam) belonged in a museum. If you’d prefer an (alcoholic) cocktail, we’d recommend the Tom Girl, a grapefruit vodka with pomegranate juice, pink grapefruit juice, cayenne and sea salt. The fruity overtones, from the fragrant grapefruit are followed by the delicate undertones of the spices. Oh, and in case you want wine, the Allegrini - Palazzo Della Torre ($49/bottle) is a nice inexpensive option.
As we were ready to start our gastronomic adventure, we were teased with an amuse of Fried Squash Flower with Ratatouille. The onions and tom
atoes in the ratatouille had influences of Indian spices and were very familiar. Our first course was the Sweet Pea Panna Cotta with King Crab and Brown Butter Vinaigrette. A nice lump of sweet crab meat was the perfect way to start the meal – the cold panna cotta added a nice textural balance to the dish. The second course was a Sauteed Daurade with Ramps, 
Tomato and Rock Shrimp. It has been seared perfectly on one side and was served on homemade ravioli. We loved the texture of the crispy skin but the fish was a little too strong for us. Our next course was the Roasted Poussin with Caramelized Pork Belly, Broccoli Raab and Eggplant. As I put the first morsel of food into my mouth, I hear one of our fellow dine
rs exclaim “how come my chicken never tastes this good!” The poussin had a crispy exterior, but was still moist and juicy and was sitting on a Japanese eggplant puree. Off to the side was a nice hunk of pork belly. Everything about this preparation was memorable…the texture and flavor combinations had our taste buds electrified.
We’re half way through our meal and then we made the decision to add the Bouillabaisse course. This fish stew was served with one piece each of mussel, 
clam, daurade, and sea scallop with a garlic-saffron aioli. We’re hit with a sharp bitter flavor with the first bite (I had a piece of the clam); others on our table got the same odd flavor. Once past the clam, the stew got better, although some of us had to contend with a dry daurade. We stirred in the aioli, and this took the soup to the next level…it took away the strong fishy smell and added creaminess to the base. Some people on our table liked the dish, but I don’t think we’d order it again. Our fifth course was the Beef Tenderloin with Morel Mus
hrooms, Jerusalem Artichokes and Forme D’Ambert. One bite, and you’re on the verge of a food orgasm. Served with both a white and a red wine reduction, and a mild blue cheese sauce, this tenderloin is the new standard for beef preparation. Just a few bites, and it’s done…we want more. But alas, precious things come in small quantities. As we recover from the food coma, we’re on to our final course, the Peach Brown Butter Cake with Grilled Peach Salad and Hibiscus Yogurt Sherbet. The second 
I read the description, I knew one of us (Natasha) wouldn’t be satisfied with the dessert (at the end of a meal like this, she needs chocolate). The cake had mild flavors and the sweet peaches gave off a sweet smell. It’s the pairing of the sour sherbet that takes this dessert to the next level, though. Although we’re done with our dessert course, I peruse the menu to see if I can find something decadent that will Natasha would fancy, but most of the desserts were fruit-based.
The food and ambience are just two of the three components that it takes to make a meal memorable. The service at LBV was impeccable. There’s a team of servers that float around the dining room effortlessly, taking meticulous care of each of the customers. This team works in unison – our bread and water is replenished quickly, they all smile and greet you genuinely, and it’s especially amazing how they precisely coordinate serving each course to the 5 diners. Our meal lasted the better part of three hours, but there weren’t awkward (or long) pauses. Bravo to the front of the house at La Belle Vie.
$$$$. A 6-course meal for two, with drinks, tax, and tip was $235.
Taste of the Twin Cities Originals (Food and Wine Event) 2007
Nicollet Island Pavilion
Minneapolis, MN
http://www.tcoriginals.com/
Category: Food Event
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: N/A
Ambience: 9
Recommendation: Excellent! This annual Food and Wine event hosted by the Twin Cities Originals group featured 30+ local restaurants offering a great selection of food, wine from Gallo vineyards and a live band. To buy tickets to the 2008 event (held on Tuesday, July 22nd from 6pm-9pm; $35 in advance, $40 at the door), click here.
The Twin Cities Originals is a group of locally owned and operated restaurants dedicated to preserving and promoting unique dining experiences. Its members include restaurants such as Afton House Inn, Bar Abilene, Broder’s Pasta Bar, Edina Grill, Rudolph’s, Solera, Stella’s Fish Café, Tejas and many more. They promote several events throughout the year. Their Rewards card allows diners to earn 1 point for every $ spent at any one of their restaurants. For every 150 points, you get a $10 reward. TCO offers a limited amount of discounted gift certificates to their restaurants available to purchase through their web-site. For instance, you can buy a $25 gift certificate for $17.50. They sell out quickly but are replenished every 3 months.
We were at the Taste of the Twin Cities Food and Wine event on July 17th, 2007 at the Nicollet Island Pavilion. The location was beautiful and they had restaurant booths set up both inside and outside. The outside area had a limited amount of seating with great views of the Mississippi waterfalls as well as the downtown Minneapolis skyline. The event was from 6pm-9pm and we got there promptly at 6pm which we highly recommend as the place got very crowded around 7pm-7:30pm (close to 900 people attended). Some of our favorites were:
Afton House Inn – Parmesan, Apple, and Apricot salad with a five herb dressing. The combination of ingredients was brilliant. The Parmesan was sliced into cubes, the Apple was shredded into thin slices, and the Apricots were soft. The dressing was great but we found it a little too greasy/oily.
Biella/Ravello – Butternut Squash Bisque with a chive Oil. Great flavor, not creamy at all like others we’ve tried.
Café Twenty Eight – Thai gazpacho with a drizzle of chili oil. Neither of us are fond of gazpacho but we loved this one. It was made with cucumbers, mint, cilantro and was very refreshing. The chili oil gave it a nice kick.
Edina Grill – Turkey Burgers. They’ve been voted the best in the cities and we absolutely agree. Really juicy burgers with a great sauce.
The Herkimer – Spicy pineapple-mango oyster shooter. This was so cool. There was an oyster at the bottom of the glass and the flavor of the drink was amazing.
Tejas – Southwestern chopped salad with smoken chicken, roasted corn, tomatoes, blue cheese, avocado, poblanos, bacon, crispy corn tortilla “croutons” with citrus vinaigrette. Amazing!
Thursday, July 10, 2008
112 Eatery
112 N. 3rd St
Minneapolis, MN
612-343-7696
http://www.112eatery.com/
Category: American-Upscale
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: 7
Ambience: 7
Recommendation: Excellent. One of a kind eatery in the Twin Cities with a chef that has received his share of accolades. 112 serves excellent eats until late at night and satisfies all palates and budgets.
112 Eatery is located in the historic Amsterdam Building on 3rd street in the Warehouse district. The space is small yet cozy, dark with soft lighting, exposed brick, and hardwood floors. 112 is chic but unpretentious and has a New York bistro feel to it. It is a great place for a date, dining with friends, or a late night snack after a night out at the bars on 1st Avenue. Even though its been open for three years, its undoubtedly one of hardest restaurants to get into, regardless of whether it’s a weekend or weeknight. On a recent Wednesday night at 11:30pm, more than half the restaurant was full, which is a refreshing change to the Twin Cities dining scene. The main level can sometimes get very loud and stuffy so we’d recommend sitting on the upper level where the ventilation is a little better and seating a little more open. Loud music can be an issue for some as it makes it hard to have a conversation. The menu consists of a good mix of appetizers, salads, small plates, and entrees. They have a nice wine list and a good selection of desserts and after-dinner drinks. Ever since it opened in January 2005, 112 Eatery has become a rage in the Twin Cities foodie scene. It has been featured in many magazines - Food and Wine, and Bon Appetit, to name a few. Chef Isaac Becker experiments with ingredients and combinations in a way that we’ve never seen before; his dishes are very flavorful yet simple.
The Sweet and Sour Crab Salad ($9) from the Appetizer menu is simply delicious. It consists of crab, chopped greens, cucumbers, cilantro, and mint drizzled with a simple dressing of lemon juice, rice wine vinegar and sugar…very light and refreshing. Another excellent appetizer is the Blue Prawns with Mayo ($12). Gigantic New Zealand tempura-battered prawns are served with Sriracha sauce laced aioli. The Sea Scallops with Oyster Mushrooms ($12) make a great starter. The sweet and soft scallops are drizzled with truffle oil…yum. Appetizers are very diverse and have something to offer for every palate: Duck Salad, Soba Noodles with Shrimp, Lamb, Scallops, Sauteed Sweetbreads, etc. In addition to Appetizers, they also have Sides which can also act as an appetizer. Their Pan-fried Gnocchi with Parmesan Reggiano ($8) is simple, yet excellent. This is one of the better gnocchi’s we’ve had in the Twin Cities. The Cauliflower Fritters ($7.50), while good, would not be our top pick. Large chunks of cauliflower are deep fried in a light batter; nothing spectacular. The Roasted Asparagus with Prosciutto is also good. The French Fries ($6.50) are thin and crispy, like Belgian Frites.
For entrees, we love the 112 Cheese burger ($9). The burger is an excellent example of the Chef Becker’s creativity and genius. The ground beef patty includes eggs, thyme, onions and is grilled to perfection…almost melts in your mouth. It is topped with Brie cheese and served on an English muffin. Very unusual and extremely flavorful. The Linguine with Blue Prawns is awesome, although it is no longer on the menu. On a recent visit, our server recommended the Tagliatelle with Foie Gras Meatballs ($12 half, $24 full). We loved the meatballs, as they literally melted in your mouth. The dish overall was a little underwhelming…it was lightly seasoned with a cream based sauce. Our server’s other recommendation was spot on. The Nori encrusted Sirloin with Ponzu ($28) was excellent. The Ponzu sauce gave the dish a nice sweet and citrusy flavor and the accompanying wasabi gave it a nice kick.
We can’t rave enough about the desserts at 112. The Tres Leches Cake ($7) was soft, creamy and simply terrific. One bite and all the milk absorbed by the cake comes bursting out into your mouth. The Chocolate Pot de Crème ($7) had a smooth dense pudding like texture and was absolutely decadent. The Butterscotch Budino ($7) was a layered dessert with custard at the bottom and butterscotch at the top. The combination was excellent but once the butterscotch layer ran out, we found that the Budino actually had a sprinkling of salt crystals, something we didn’t care for. Why mess up a sweet dessert by adding salt?
$$$. Appetizers, Small plates, and Sides are under $10. Entrees are $16-$28. Open Monday-Friday 5pm-1am (full kitchen service) and Sundays 5pm-10pm. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak hours. This place is hard to get into due to its popularity.
El Taquito
1434 Robert St. S
St. Paul, MN
651-455-4526
Category: Mexican
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 6
Service: 6
Ambience: 7
Recommendation: Good. This place was built up to be more than it actually was – decent authentic Mexican food, but nothing spectacular…and definitely greasy.
The Twin Cities may not be the hotbed of authentic Mexican cuisine, but we think we have
our fair share of great eateries. Restaurants like La Mixteca and markets such as El Burrito Mercado and Mercado Central bring legitimacy to the Mexican dining scene. I (Nick) was really looking forward to El Taquito. One of my coworkers (who really knows Mexican cuisine) had built this place up as the best Taco experience and I was pumped to try it. This place has character – the brightly colored murals depicting the Aztecs and the pyramids evoke fond memories of our trip to Central Mexico late last year. El Taquito is casual but we like the effort they’ve made to spruce up the interiors. The seating is clean and comfortable.
The menu is pretty standard for what you would expect from a authentic Mexican eatery; tacos, burritos and guisados (plates) where you get to choose from one of a dozen meats. Your choice of meat includes the standard fare of beef, chicken, and carnitas but also more adventurous cuts such as the lengua (tongue) and tripas (intestine). I ordered a mélange of tacos. When they arrived, the first thing that jumped at me was the greasy look of the tortillas.
The single yellow corn tortillas had been warmed on a griddle with an obscene amount of oil and it was a turn-off. I topped the tacos with the accompanying cilantro and onions and dove right in. Instantaneously I knew something was missing, but I couldn’t figure out what. Even after adding the salsa (which had good flavor but lacked heat) I was unsatisfied…and then it hit me. It was the lime…we didn’t have any lime with our Tacos. How could they; we were missing a key component of the trifecta. Once I got past the greasiness the meat was pretty good. The soft and tender Lengua was my favorite followed closely by the Tinga and Carnitas. I could have skipped the Asada because the meat was too dry. By the end, I was full and my hands were greasy (I’d hate to think how my arteries were doing). Not my favorite meal, but it wasn’t a total loss either.
$. At $2 a taco this place exemplifies cheap eats.
Monday, July 7, 2008
D’Amico Cucina
Historic Butler Square
100 N 6th St
Minneapolis, MN
612-338-2401
http://www.damico.com/
Category: Contemporary Italian
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: 9
Ambience: 8
Recommendation: Excellent. Although this restaurant has been a mainstay for over 20 years, it never ceases to impress and is one of the “must-eats” in the Twin Cities.
As we approach the 1 year anniversary of our blog, we are excited (and it is by sheer coincidence) that the honor of the 150th review belongs to D’Amico Cucina, a long standing Twin Cities establishment. With less than a month to go before Natasha is due to give birth to our first child we felt it was apt to visit some of the Cities’ finer dining establishments. It isn’t like we haven’t been to our fair share of “expensive” places, but something leads me to believe that we’ll be short on time (and money) once the baby arrives. We’ve always relished our experiences at the D’Amico and Partners establishments (Café & Bar Lurcat, Masa, and Campiello) and D’Amico Cucina just reinforces our respect for the folks that oversee this portfolio of businesses.
D’Amico is located in the historic Butler Square building in the heart of Minneapolis. The feel of the restaurant plays off the building with a rustic sophisticated look. The flickering candles, pretty chandeliers, live music, and dim lighting add a touch of romance and soften the look of the interiors. D’Amico radiates opulence and class, and it is evident in all aspects of the dining experience.
The contemporary Italian menu is developed under the watchful eye of Chef John Occhiato. We had decided beforehand that we would do the 5-course tasting menu, but after careful observation we thought a-la-carte was more interesting (especially because we could select courses from the tasting 
menu). Our adventure started with the Roasted Scallops (with Warm Brown Butter and Black Truffle Vinaigrette); buttery deliciousness with an earthy scent of truffles emanating from the dish. The second appetizer was the Suckling Pig (a Terrine with Mustard Crust, Grilled Green Onion Pesto, and Watercress)…we especially loved the crispy texture of the crust. We couldn’t pass up on the Rabbit Risotto with 
Baby Turnip, Saba, and Arugula. This course was from the tasting menu and highly recommended by our server – he was spot on; creamy and rich is the best way to describe it. We also couldn’t ignore the Swordfish Ravioli (with Monterey Bay Calamari, Pinenut, and Cracked Green Olive). The Ravioli was amazing but the accompanying sauce, though light and fresh, just didn’t wow us.
On the other hand, the Secondi course absolutely did. Nick ordered the Veal Tenderloin (Sous Vide with Black Truffle, Cippolini, and Braised 
Celery). It’s a dish we won’t soon forget – the whiff of the truffle infusion evident the moment the plate was laid on the table. The veal was moist and tender. Our friend Alex might bash the tenderloin cut, but you couldn’t pull this dish off with any other cut of meat. Natasha went with another pasta course…the Gnocchi (served with Lobster, Spinach, and a White Truffle Beurre Blanc). You might think we’re tired of truffles by now, buy you’d be dead wrong. We were glad to 
see two massive chunks of lobster adorn this plate…mild flavors made this dish unforgettable. It’s time for dessert and usually we get one dessert and share; but there were two things on the dessert menu that really caught our eye. Instead of fighting over which one to get, we decided we would try both. If you’ve read this blog before you’d guess that one of them would be a chocolate dessert (and you’d be spot on). The Warm Chocolate Truffle Cake was warm, gooey, and 
heavenly. The Warm Almond Frangipane Crepes (with Vanilla Mascarpone Mousse and Candied Apricots) was just as good. When I saw the apricots, I was worried that they would throw this dish off but the ingredients on that plate were in harmony…the chewy, crispy caramelized crepes were excellent, just as the server had promised.
We can’t thank our server enough…a polite gentleman with recommendations that were right on the mark. Poor service can ruin a great dining experience but in our case we can’t complain about any aspect of our visit to D’Amico Cucina. When our check came, we realized that we had indulged in a four-course a-la-carte meal (with a couple of glasses of Barbera) and the final bill reflected that. A slight shock, because this is without a doubt our most expensive meal yet in the Twin Cities, but who said unforgettable moments are cheap.
$$$$. Dinner for two (with two glasses of wine, tax and tip was $230). Valet parking is available for $8.
Cafe Maude
5411 Penn Ave S
Minneapolis, MN
(612) 822-5411
http://www.cafemaude.com/
Category: American-Upscale, Mediterranean
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 9
Service: 8
Ambience: 8
Recommendation: Excellent. This neighborhood bistro serves great Mediterranean-inspired fare at very reasonable prices.
Café Maude is a inviting bistro in the Armatage neighborhood of Minneapolis. The “Maude” is a tribute to Maude Armatage, a visionary civic leader, whose key contribution was to give to Minneapolis its wonderful park system. Down a lonely stretch of Penn Ave, this restaurant seems out of place initially but those thoughts soon recede when you enter this establishement. We had heard that this was the most exclusive table in Minneapolis and judging by the crowd at 10.30pm on a Friday night, we can assure you that getting a table here is no easy task. The restaurant radiates romance with the espresso wood, mahogany floor, and deep red and orange hues from the walls and lights. The flickering votives and dim lighting add to the ambience. This restaurant also has live music and there was a jazz band playing when we went. It’s interesting to note that the age of the patrons is a little older than what you would find in some uptown and downtown restaurants. There is also a large bar and the restaurant was indeed a little loud, mostly from the patrons at the bar. Outdoor seating is available in summer months. The Brunch menu has a good variety of breakfast type items as well as sandwiches, soups, and salads.
Maude has an eclectic menu of cocktails – we tried (and liked) the Natasha, a blackberry syrup twist on the standard Cosmopolitan. The sweetness of the syrup paired up well with the tartness of the berries. There is a nice wine menu as well as some great brews from the Netherlands and Belgium. The menu itself is inspired by the flavors of the Mediterranean, but the flavors are subtle and sometime hard to associate to a particular region. For appetizers, the Chorizo Hash (potatoes, chorizo, baby octopus, and harissa aioli) definitely had some great flavors and would work really well as a breakfast side. In fact, their Brunch menu also includes this dish. The Seared Ahi Tuna (with grilled bread, avocado, and citrus vinaigrette) was a unique preparation – the fish was top notch and the avocado and citrus added creamy and cool flavors with a sweet/sour finish. The house baguette served with herb butter was wonderful as well.
For entrees, we would recommend both the Frisee Flatbread as well as the Lamb Skewers. The Lamb Skewers (with Moroccan spices and garlic-mint yogurt) were exquisite – a mince of lamb with Middle-Eastern seasonings was rolled into an oval ball, skewered and grilled, and was served with a cool, refreshing yogurt sauce. We can’t say enough about this dish except that it truly captures the essence of the flavors from the region. The Frisee Flatbread (with duck confit, blue cheese, and balsamic) had a great mixture of sweet and pungent flavor, but we hoped that the chef would have cut down on the amount of blue cheese in this dish – a flavor that overpowered the nuances of the other ingredients. Note that the flatbread is more like a pita than a pizza crust.
On the Brunch menu, we really like the Crab Cake Sandwich. The crab meat portion is pretty generous and the accompanying remoulade was great.
Our server, Sasha, was wonderful and her recommendations were spot on. She was friendly and attentive and we were well taken care of. Overall, we had a wonderful dining experience and we’re delighted to see another good restaurant pop up in a quaint Minneapolis neighborhood.
$$. Appetizers mostly under $10 and entrees under $15. Our dinner bill for two was $65 including tax and tip. 
