Porter and Frye

1115 2nd Ave S (Hotel Ivy)
Minneapolis, MN
612-353-3500
http://www.porterandfrye.com/

Category: American-Upscale

Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 7
Service: 6
Ambience: 8

Recommendation: Very Good. Some of the menu items are excellent but unfortunately many of the flavors aren’t prominent. There’s fierce competition in this restaurant category, and Porter and Frye has some work to do if they wish to continue charging such exorbitant prices.

Porter & Frye is located in the lobby level of the new Hotel Ivy in downtown Minneapolis. If you follow the restaurant scene in the Twin Cities, you’ve no doubt heard of Steven Brown’s new venture, the anticipation leading up to the opening last month, and the polarizing reviews (here’s Kathy Jenkins and Andrew Zimmern battling it out over their recent visits!). The space is swanky, cool, and spacious – even with the large leather chairs, there’s plenty of space between tables. The curved bar with the vibrant color backlight is chic – and we got a great view from our table looking through the latticework that separates the bar from the dining area. Just a word of caution – the walls in this restaurant don’t absorb sound well and it tends to get really loud.

The cocktail menu was inventive – the Marguerite was a modern twist on the margarita and was made with a vanilla and black pepper infused tequila. The resulting drink had a complex flavor that wasn’t too sweet and had peppery/spicy tones. The Rumble in the Jungle was a variation of the classic Mojito; lime, basil and orange blossom honey muddled with rum produced a crisp and refreshing drink. We started with an array of appetizers, and I was blown away by the Berkshire Terrine – the butter cream frosting, smoked raisin puree, and violet mustard drew out the creamy texture of the pork terrine. Likewise, the Charred Ahi Tuna served with shishito peppers was excellent – it’s wasn’t the most imaginative dish, but it was cooked to perfection and the peppers added a tiny amount of bite. Two for two, Chef Brown! I was indifferent to the Sea Scallops appetizer though. The bread basket had an excellent selection – the raisin and anise bread was wonderful.

The restaurant’s mantra is Modern + Midwest and the menu consists of various meat options and some seafood. I had mixed feelings about the Lamb and Lamb Chop – the first preparation was a couple of lamb chops that had muted flavors and weren’t distinct. Luckily, the plating also consisted of a braised lamb served with Hen of the Woods mushrooms – the lamb was succulent and the firm textured mushrooms held their own. I didn’t try either of these, but both the Grilled Bone-In Ribeye and Meyer Ranch Beef Tenderloin got mixed reviews at the table. Both were cooked exquisitely, but the primary complaint was that the accompanying flavors weren’t pronounced. I found it strange that the tenderloin was served with raw unseasoned white button mushrooms, and even if they were meant to be a garnish, I don’t think they should have been part of the plating! The table had good things to say about the Grilled Swordfish. Dessert was a letdown. Personally, I really liked the Chocolate Tart with Maple Cream – dark intense chocolate tones with sweet-sugary cream. Simple, but flawless; I’ll take that combination any day. The consensus around the table was that the other four desserts on the menu were unimpressive. The Almond Cake and Goat Cheese Cheesecake were my least favorite, the former being dry and flavorless, and the latter tart and overpowering. Service was a mixed bag – there was an unreasonably long pause between the appetizers and entrees, mostly because the server didn’t take our order in time. However, he was friendly and knew the menu well. We understand that it will take a little time for the front of the house to get its groove on.

$$$$. The food cost was about $85 per person including tax and tip, but with wine and cocktails, it was more like $140. Entrees range from $16-$49 so what you spend can vary significantly depending on what you order. Valet parking is available at the Ivy for $8.