4300 East Lake St
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612-722-0175
http://www.craftsmanrestaurant.com/
Category: American-Upscale (Organic/Local)
Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest):
Food: 7
Service: 6
Ambience: 7
Recommendation: Very Good. A nice neighborhood restaurant with a changing seasonal menu of locally sourced fresh and organic ingredients.
Craftsman is located in the Longfellow neighborhood of Minneapolis. It has a great outdoor patio that is covered with vines, while the interior sports a soothingly lit cozy dining room. A large bar adorns one end of the restaurant and pours a great selection of regional beers including Bells Oberon Wheat Ale and Surly Furious Amber. The menu consists of locally grown and/or organic ingredients. The restaurant sources most of its ingredients from local farms and producers that are independently owned. Although some dishes stay on the menu permanently, the menu, under the watchful eye of Chef Mike Phillips, changes frequently. The menu consists of a variety of meats such as chicken, pork, rabbit as well as pizzas and burgers.
The chef recommends wines with the different dishes that are served. Natasha had a Cabernet Sauvignon Rose which was excellent. For appetizers, we tried the Beet and Chevre Terrine which was wonderful – the sweetness from the beets marries well with the tartness of the Chevre. The dish was almost too beautiful to eat. It is served with whole wheat crackers but tasted better with the complimentary Olive Bread…..you can also buy the bread from the Rustica bakery on Bryant and 46th.
The Turkey Burger here is very good. It was very flavorful and the meat was really juicy. It is served with homemade chili ketchup (they also serve regular ketchup upon request), a chive aioli, micro greens (which tasted very fresh), and crispy Belgian style fries. We also tried the special of the day, which was Whole Wheat Pasta with Pulled Pork and Crème Fraiche. The pork had been marinated for a few hours and was very tender. The crème fraiche gave the sauce a nice and creamy texture but wasn’t as heavy as an alfredo sauce. The dish was finished with some fresh vegetables (squash and zucchini) and cheese. This entrée was very unique and the final product is a testament to the skill level present in Craftsman’s kitchen.
$$$. Entrees are priced between $15 and $30, pizzas and burgers are between $10 and $15. Parking is available behind the restaurant or on the street.
Update (February 11, 2008) – On a recent visit on a Monday night, we found ourselves pretty much alone in the romantic dining area. The food was preceded by a glass of Flat Earth Cygnus X-1, a local beer. Although it’s labeled as a porter because of its creamy texture and chocolate color, it really drinks more like an ale. The Cheese Plate was a perfect appetizer for our group to share – a selection of 5 cheeses of which we really liked the salty, aged, Blu Mont Dairy “Lil’ Will” and the tangy, nutty, Gruyere style Uplands Farm “Pleasant Ridge Preserve.” The entrees were a mixed bag. The flavors of the Pan Roasted Star Prairie Rainbow Trout were mild and subtle. However, we feel they the menu should have indicated that the trout is served “whole.” While not a problem for our diners, it can be for many, especially because it takes a lot of effort to work through a whole fish. A hefty serving of the Grilled Fisher Farms Pork Chop was cooked nicely and was still juicy in the middle, while the accompanying espresso baked beans stole the show with their rich and bold flavors. Surprisingly, the Hangar Steak was a disaster – initially being cooked to a char as opposed to the medium that was requested, only to be outdone by the 15 minutes it took to bring out a replacement steak (we know most chefs don’t like the entrees being sent back, but 15 minutes for a medium steak in an empty restaurant.) We did enjoy the desserts immensely; the Apple Crisp a la Mode was served warm and had the right proportion of crust to filling, while the Flourless Fudge Torte was dense, rich, and had great balance of sweet and bitter flavors. The service wasn’t stellar – although not unfriendly, the server looked disinterested, and didn’t engage at all during the meal. Plus, given the experience with the steak, we believe a restaurant of this caliber should have removed the charge for that entree from our bill, something they didn’t and we decided not to push for.
Monday, February 18, 2008
Craftsman
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3 comments:
I must comment. We were so excited when the Craftsman opened because we live in the neighborhood and love good, sensible, local food. The first couple of visits were fabulous. Great food, attentive service, etc. Then it started going downhill. The service went first. And then the last time were were there (late last summer?) we almost walked out. We had to wait for 10 minutes before being greeted at the table and when the trout was delivered to the table (yes, the whole fish, wrapped in a slab of fatty prosciutto) we nearly got up and walked out. We won't be back. Which is a shame, because it's so close and a beautiful space. Sigh.
The thing I love about the Craftsman is the deep flavors and attention to detail in everything they serve. The beet and chevre terrine is gorgeous, all deep red and soft cream. The burgers are to die for - juicy and full of flavor. Sort of like the salmon dish from Tom Rup Thai in Uptown that I can't break away from, I can't stop ordering the harissa burger - it's that good. And the fries - keep your hands off mine, or better yet, order your own, because you won't want to share either.
Once in a while I am able to break out of the mold and order a different entree. Whether it's a steak or slow cooked beef or pork, or the gourmet soul food from last summer (free range fried chicken and greens - omg) , I always find the entrees carefully thought out and deliciously prepared.
It's a tough time for independent restaurants. Let's find the good and praise it. I appreciate the energy that the Craftsman puts into using local ingredients and crafting them into lovely meals, even in the dead of winter. Same with Lucia's and Brenda's and Heartland and Brasa and (insert name of your favorite local place here). They all work their butts off trying to keep us happy, and somehow they manage to give us city folks delicious meals that have a sense of place - our place, Minnesota, the Midwest. It's not easy running a small restaurant these days, and it's really not easy to walk the line and support local farmers year round. Cheers to the farmers and local producers; cheers to the chefs and cooks and dishers; and cheers to the waitstaff that have to explain this stuff to us! Onward. Eat. Enjoy.
I live in the neighborhood and visit this restaurant frequently. It is hands down one of the best restaurants in the Twin Cities. The chef goes out of his way to support local farmers and to use fresh, seasonal foods. The service has always been very friendly and helpful. The service is a little more relaxed because it is ultimately a neighborhood restaurant. So if the foodies were looking for someone to sing and dance for them maybe they would have been better off at TGI Fridays. I highly recommend this restaurant if you want a genuine, homemade, delicious dining experience.
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